Music in Naples (1771)

Monday 29. Mr. Hamilton, being returned to Naples, in order to gratify my musical curiosity, made a great concert at his house, where there was much company, and where I had the satisfation of meeting with the chief musical performers of this city; among whom were the celebrated player on the violin Signor Barbella, and Orgitano, one of the best harpsichord players and writers for that instrument at Naples. But Mrs. Hamilton is herself a much better performer on that instrument than either he or any one I heard there. She has great neatness, and more expression and meaning in her playing, than is often found among lady-players; for ladies, it must be ovwned, though frequently neat in execution seldom aim at expression. Barbella rather disappointed me; his performance has nothing very surprising in it now: he is not young, indeed; and solo playing is never wanted or regarded here; so that teaching and orchestra playing are his chief employments. He performed, however, most admirably the famous Neapolitan air, which the common people constantly play at Christmas to the Virgin; this he plays with a drone kind of bag-pipe base, in a very humorous, though delicate manner. But as a solo- player, though his tone is very even and sweet, he is inferior to Nardini; and, indeed, to several others in Italy; but he seems to know music well, and to have a good deal of fancy in his compositions, with a tincture of not disagreeable madnes. It was  here that I had first the honour of being presented to Lord Fortrose, from whom I afterwards received many singular favours. I was likewise introduced to the French Consul, M. D'Astier, who is a real connoisseur in music; perfectly well acquainted with the different stiles of all the great composers of Europe, past and present, and discriminates very well in speaking of their several merits. To him I communicated my plan, and with him I had a very satisfactory conversation. In order, I believe, that I might have more time for musical disquistions with this gentleman, and Signor Barbella, there was a supper party selected of about ten or twelve, and we staid till near two o'clock in the morning.

Barbella is the best natured creaturce imaginable, his temper, as one of the compapny observed, is as soft as the tone of his violin. By sitting next to him, I acquired much biographical knowledge concerning old Neapolitan musicians. Mr. Hamilton had offered to write to all the governors of the several Conferatorios, but Signor Barbella very obligingly undertook to get me all the information I could desire of these celebrated musical schools. And Lord Fortrose, whom he attends every morning, invited me to meet him at his lordship's house, whenever I pleased. So that from Barbella and a young Englishman, Mr. Oliver, who has been four years in the Conservatorio of St. Onofrio, I obtained a satisfactory account of whatever was necessary for me to know concerning this part of my business at Naples. Mr. Hamilton entered so far into my views, as to take a list of my wants, in order to consider of the best method of getting them supplied.